A Roadtrip through Tuscany
We spent a month drifting through small villages and winding roads between November and December, and we definitely fell in love with Tuscany all over again this time, in a completely new way.
The Route: From the Alps to the Coast
Our journey didn’t start in Tuscany, but the approach was just as magical. Coming from Austria, we drove down towards Udine, heading for the border of Slovenia and East Italy.
📍 Stop 1: Brussa Spiaggia & Valle Vecchia
We found a spot right on the parking lot at Brussa Spiaggia and stayed for several days. It’s the perfect base to explore the Sentiero le dune di Valle Vecchia, a beautiful nature reserve with walking paths through the dunes.
Vanlife Tip: Great for nature lovers and dog walks.
From there, we followed the coast past Venice and headed towards the Po Delta.
📍 Stop 2: Wels Camp am Po
A hidden gem! This is a sweet, small campsite run by a German owner, located directly on the Po river.
Recommendation: Wels Camp am Po https://maps.app.goo.gl/9brSacGXY7MTpGxP7
The Tuscan Coast
We cut through the interior via Bologna to reach the other side of the Italian „boot“, emerging just below Pisa near Livorno. Driving south along the coast, we hit some absolute highlights.
Beach Highlights:
Quercetano Bay: Stunning views.
Spiagge Bianche: The famous „white beaches.“
Spiaggia della Mazzanta: Perfect for a beach stroll.
📍 Stop 3: Camping Bocca di Cecina
Finding open campsites in November can be tricky, but Camping Bocca di Cecina was a lifesaver.
Why we loved it: It is open all year round (a huge advantage in winter!), very spacious, and beautiful (in summer I think it can get very crowded!)
Location: Camping Bocca di Cecina https://maps.app.goo.gl/8X9imSmKn3MxrFg16
Into the Wild: Maremma & The South
Continuing south, nature took over. Our next major stop was the Diaccia Botrona Nature Reserve in the Maremma region.
Wildlife Alert: We saw countless unique bird species here, including wild Flamingos!
Right next door is Castiglione della Pescaia.
Pro Tip: Hike up the hill behind the town in the evening to the viewpoint for an unforgettable sunset. View point https://maps.app.goo.gl/27JniP2PM3XQcZGZ7
Inland Adventures: Hot springs
From the coast, we turned inland towards the famous thermal waters.
📍 Stop 4: Saturnia Hot Springs
The Cascate del Mulino are famous for a reason, but here is how to do it right with a van:
Parking: We stayed at Area Sosta Camper Saturnia. It’s open all year, safe for the van (and dog), and perfect for walking to the springs.
Budget Hack: If you want to save on the overnight fee, there are showers available right at the thermal springs for a few Euros. You can wash off the sulfur smell and grab a hot shower without paying for a full campsite but be warned: good parking in the area is very limited, which is why we chose the official camper stop.
Location: Area Sosta Camper Saturnia https://maps.app.goo.gl/wMsicNHik65REy6RA
📍 Stop 5: Pitigliano & Sovana
We drove further inland through the „Tuff cities.“
⚠️ Driver Warning: The roads to Pitigliano and Sovana wind through mountain villages with very narrow streets. We didn’t have this on our radar, and with a large van, it can get extremely tight. Drive carefully!
The Heart of Tuscany: Val d’Orcia
After passing Lake Bolsena, we headed back north towards my personal highlight of the trip.
📍 Stop 6: Bagni San Filippo
If you visit one hot spring, make it this one.
The Vibe: Much less crowded than Saturnia and located right in the middle of a forest. The white calcium formations among the trees are surreal. A definite „Must-Do.“
We spent a few days in this region, finding an incredible parking spot with a view over the Val d’Orcia.
📍 Stop 7: Pienza & Gladiator Views
We moved north towards Castiglione d’Orcia and Pienza.
Pienza: We highly recommend walking through the town. We were lucky to catch a small, authentic Italian Christmas market with live music.
Photo Spot: Don’t miss the famous „Gladiator Set“ location with the cypress trees. It looks just as breathtaking in real life.
📍 Stop 8: Il Casale Agricampeggio
To fully enjoy the Val d’Orcia, we stopped here for power and a hot shower.
Why stop here: It has a fantastic little farm shop selling fresh cheese, homemade olive oil, and other treats.
Location: Il Casale Agricampeggio https://maps.app.goo.gl/4BLr3U3soTwGQtnQ7
The way back home
Slowly, we wound our way through the sweet mountain villages and valleys, heading north towards Florence. We said our final goodbye to Tuscany at Viareggio, before driving via Milan and Switzerland back to Germany for the holidays.
Keep these information in mind!!!
Duration: 1 Month (Nov – Dec 2024)
Vibe: Quiet, authentic, and cozy
Vanlife: very easy, (almost) no other camper vans, not too many camp sites that are open all year long, laundry services almost every corner, be aware of dangerous small streets
Verdict: Visiting Tuscany in the off-season allowed us to see a completely different side of Italy. We will be back.